Bollinger PN VZ19: Measured Indulgence

The World of Fine Wine contributor Simon Field MW provides in-depth coverage of the Champagne Bollinger PN series and the latest release, PN VZ19. Known by many as the House of Pinot Noir, Field underscores this belief adding “if any house has the right to chase down the dream of an apotheosis of a Pinot Noir Champagne, then that house should surely be Bollinger.”

Each release of PN, made entirely from Pinot Noir to underscore the very essence and DNA of the House style, showcases a different cru from the base year that highlights its distinctive terroir and taste. Each multi-vintage release “rejoices in plenty of reserve wine, much of it having been aged in magnum under cork. This facet, allied to the flavoring of oak fermentation, has informed a style that is very powerful, very Bollinger, and neatly described by managing director Charles-Armand de Belenet, as ‘endlessly decadent.’ Quite,” said Field.

The fifth edition of the series, PN VZ19, explores the interpretation of Pinot Noir from Verzenay 2019 and features reserve wines dating back to 2008. Field describes the PN series as “clever,” and offers insightful context of the fruit selected for this blend from Verzenay as well as other villages for balance. The piece also provides a nice overview from the growing season.

As far as the tasting PN VZ19? “Power and gastronomic versatility are demonstrably impressive; the additional and oh-so-vital subtlety down to both the 52% of reserve wine and the fact that this reserve wine is divided between an older vintage (2009) and the most recent vintage (2018). The almost counterintuitive recognition that both of these were hot years underwrites the fact that this is supposed to be a powerful, rich, and vinous style. It is Bollinger, after all. Yet the vertical delicacy and finely sketched shard of acidity is all down to the latent quality of the 2019 vintage and the art of assemblage itself—by virtue of Chef de Cave Denis Bunner himself.” Read the full article HERE and enclosed.